The Icelandic Highlands with Claire Thiolière

Day 1: Reykjavik – Hekla Farms
160 km drive – 3–4-hour walk – Alt. between 200m and 300m – Hotel Leirubakki***
We will meet at your hotel in Reykjavik Be dressed as a hiker, ready to go, with your daypack and your large travel bag packed. (One piece of luggage can be kept in the luggage room of your accommodation in Reykjavik or at our warehouse on the south coast). Departure for a 2-hour drive through the southern moors. Short stop at the warehouse in the village of Hella where we load up the food and equipment. After half an hour on the track we start the hike to the tiny Hekla farms south of the volcano. These farms have had to move many times over the centuries and the farmers do not always agree on the exact location of the grandparents’ farm that was swallowed up by a lava flow. Bucolic and dilapidated atmosphere, full of the charm of this strange countryside. Picnic lunch in the meadows.  Despite the nearby volcano, the landscape here is green, and some old lava fields are covered with moss and clumps of arctic birch barely larger and as old as "bonsai", creating with clear springs that spring from the chaos real Japanese gardens.

TWO OPTIONS A and B FOR DAY 2

Day 2: Option A: Veiðivötn Lakes
Round trip160 km of driving on tracks– 2-3 hours of walking – Alt.500-600 m – 1st night at Hotel in Leirubakki***
In the middle of a vast expanse of black sand interrupted on the horizon by a few parallel chains of small volcanic cones just as black, spreads a string of small crater lakes. These are the Veiðivötn, the fishing lakes. Their brilliance and their color with countless shades of blue and the narrow strip of fluorescent green vegetation that borders them make them real jewels set on the surrounding deep black velvet. Several short walks here and there allow us to discover the whole of this region which is unlike anything known. The small and large lakes are connected to each other by short streams of clear water sometimes by small waterfalls. The only humans in the area that we sometimes meet are a few solitary fishermen stuck in the water and that we will avoid disturbing. The magnificent giant trout of the area are a quasi-endemic species, impressive since they exceed in size and weight many salmon. On each lake nests a pair of loons that from time to time let out a powerful and nostalgic cry. (Go listen to it and admire it on You Tube: Great Northern Diver – Gavia immer).

Day 2: Option B:  Landmannalaugar – Fjallabak North
Round trip 160 km of driving on tracks - 4-5 hours of walking – Alt.600-800 m - 2nd night at Hotel in Leirubakki ***
The track attacks the last rampart of palagonite that protects the last remnants of countryside from the scorched earth. On the other side, we arrive on the moon, at the very foot of the monster, and cross an expanse of scoria of perfect flatness. The surrounding black is so dark that it becomes blue like the plumage of a crow. Tiny humans, we progress in an entirely mineral world on the infinite plain of scoria that borders the eastern flank of the volcano, where most of the flows from the last eruptions have been vomited. Some flows are less than six years old, some are beginning to be buried under the black scoria, sometimes of beige pozzolan, because Hekla also has acid eruptions. Silver lichens and green velvet mosses settle on the lava flows. As we move away from Hekla, the landscape softens, and the green of the tundra gradually gains on the expanses of black scoria that rain down on the country with each eruption. We reach the crown of Loðmundur, an ancient subglacial volcano reflected in the magnificent lake of Loðmundarvatn. Our path continues through the shimmering colors of the rhyolitic magma massifs that lead to the valley of Landmannalaugar. Great hike through the incredible palette of pastel colors of the surrounding massifs, from blue to pink through all the possible ochres.

Day 3: Crossing the Hrafntinnusker caldera on foot
60 km of driving on tracks +/- 6-7 hours of walking – Alt.600m up to 1.100m - Night in Hungurfit Hut
The metaphor “raven-black reefs” for Hrafntinnusker is a fine example of the ancient and natural metaphorical poetry of Icelandic. It means the reefs or reefs (Sker) of obsidian (Hrafntinna) (Hrafn for raven and Tinna for intense black): a black vitrified lava with sometimes blue or green reflections, sharp as a razor blade that spreads here on the soft pastel undulations of acid rocks of the crown of the caldera of the same name. We will carefully see the countless solfataras with pools of bubbling mud, powerful and noisy jets of steam. On the edge of the caldera we advance on a flatness of black scoria that leads towards Mount Hekla which dominates the nearby horizon with its imposing and legendary mass. We also explore a magical landscape of small volcanic cones and streams of pure water in a closed valley at the foot of the imposing light rock monolith of Laufafell.

Day 4: Mælifellssandur crossing on foot
+/- 6-7 hours of walking – Alt. 500 m all the way - Night in Strútur hut
We start the day with a 1-hour vehicle transfer on the Fjallabak-South track. Here you can admire the alignment of the mountain ranges, all perfectly parallel and aligned in the same direction: the direction of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge that crosses Iceland from North to South. In good weather you have a spectacular view of three large ice caps: Mýrdalsjökull, Eyjafjallajökull and Tíndafjallajökull.

On foot we cross the Mælifellssandur desert, where the enormous Mýrdalsjökull ice cap ends in a gentle and regular slope. Amidst this strange black flatness stands the solitary cone of Mælifell covered in fluorescent moss. The comfortable shelter of Strútur is situated in the strange landscape between the southern flank of the Torfajökull caldera and the ice cap of Mýrdalsjökull.

Day 5: Strútur - Hólmsárlón
6-7 hours of hiking - 40 km of track - 40 km of road- Hotel Katla ***
1h30 of walking to the hot spring of Strútslaug where we take an unforgettable bath at the end of the world. Invigorated and well dried we resume our walk. Progression on the banks of the long and narrow lake Hólmsárlón. We reach, at the place called "the red bottoms", where the extraordinary turquoise lake of Hólmsárlón suddenly plunges in a series of beautiful waterfalls to the red crater of Rauðibotnar.

These «Red Fonts» result of a phreatic explosion is located on the fissure of Eldgjá, ​​"Gorge of Fire", the largest eruptive fault on the surface of the planet, today covered by moss and crossed by clear streams. During the six years of this eruption (A.D. 934-940), lava flowed from several vents over a 75-km (47-mile) long stretch. The lava from this fissure covered the southern part of the country, covering 781 square km (302 square miles). Fortunately, huge eruptions like those at Eldgjá and Laki are very rare; otherwise, life would probably not be possible on earth.

By car we return to the coastal plain, crossing strange and magnificent landscapes. Arriving on the circular road we drive due west for 50 km to reach a comfortable hotel a few km from Vík-í-Mýrdal.

Day 6: South Coast – Vestmannaeyjar Islands
2-3 hours of hiking - 90 km of road – Hotel Vestmann***
This morning, we are on a section extremely frequented by tourists
We will go to the beautiful black sand beach under the promontory of Vík-í-Myrdal the only town on the ocean shore on the South Coast of Iceland.
While to the west, north and east the coasts are only fjords and bays, the South Coast is only an infinite black sand beach some 400 km long. This sand results from the innumerable glacial debacle of the great glaciers of the south. It therefore does not shelter any fishing port which explains the prosperity of the Vestmann Islands not far offshore, located in the middle of the large schools of fish of the North Atlantic. In the afternoon we board a deep-sea ferry for a 40-minute crossing to the island of Heimaey in the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago.
The arrival in the port is magnificent in the middle of the rocks and with the incessant cries of birds above our heads. Then, Eldfell and Helgafell are the 2 volcanoes that we see immediately when getting off the ferry as they occupy the panorama above the city

Day 7: Vestmannaeyjar Islands
Two hikes of 2-3 hours each - Hotel Vestmann***
The Vestmann Islands archipelago (Vestmannaeyjar in Icelandic) is made up of 18 islands and a few other rocks and islets, all volcanic origin. Often forgotten by tourists, because they are necessarily a little far from road number 1, the Vestmann Islands are nevertheless one of the main places of interest in the country. They are all uninhabited, except for Heimaey which is the largest.

The islands of the archipelago are named Elliðaey, Faxasker, Bjarnarey, Stóri-Örn, Grasleysa, Hrauney, Hani, Hæna, Stóristakkur, Álsey, Brandur, Suðurey, Hellisey, Geldungur, Súlnasker, Geirfuglasker, Surtsey and finally Heimaey.

Most of them are more rocks than real islands since the only island outside Heimaey that is larger than 1 km2 is Surtsey which has a very recent history.

Indeed, Surtsey was born recently since it is the consequence of one of the 2 major eruptions that hit the region in the 20th century. Surtsey is even one of the most recent islands in the world because it was formed between November 14, 1963, and June 5, 1967, during an underwater eruption.

However, the most famous volcanic eruption that hit the Vestmann Islands was that of 1973. In Heimaey, on the main island, on January 23, 1973, a 1.6 km long fissure opened just 400m from the city, it is the Eldfell volcano. The 5,000 inhabitants of the island were then evacuated to the mainland

It was only on June 26 of the same year that the lava stopped flowing and the island then went from an area of ​​11 km² to 13.5 at the end of the eruption. Many homes were buried under the lava and the damage was very significant since nearly 400 homes disappeared.

Today the traces of this eruption are still clearly visible on Heimaey, and we can imagine when we get closer to Eldfell the extent of the damage.

Hiking in Eldfell, the must-see of Heimaey. The volcano dominates the small town and its reddish color contrasts perfectly with the greenery. The hike is worth it and the view from the top of the volcano on the town offers an extraordinary panorama. If there was only one activity to do during this trip, it would clearly be this one which allows you to have an incredible view of the city with the truly astonishing red colors of the rock.

Day 8: Return to Reykjavik
Ferry to mainland - 150 km drive to Reykjavik
Hike to the lighthouse of the Stórhöfði promontory (Big Head). The interest is not really this lighthouse but the walk along the cliffs near it, truly magnificent in clear weather and which allows in summer to admire and photograph all the tabular islands south of Heimaey. Opposite the vastness of the Atlantic (15,000 km of ocean to the Antarctic continent). The Vestmann Islands are home to the largest colony of Puffins in Iceland, if not the world. Alas when we arrive on the islands they will have deserted the colonies for two weeks. This is where the black point of our trip is

In the early afternoon the ferry takes us back to the mainland. From the pier we return by regular bus to the Reykjavik bus station where we arrive in the middle of the afternoon. From there you return by taxi to your hotels in the capital.

Itinerary and safety:
The day-to-day program can be changed or even reversed. Rare but unpredictable in advance, these modifications can be imposed for safety reasons due to natural phenomena specific to these territories: volcanic eruption or alert of eruption, early or late snowfall, bad weather, glacial rivers flooding, exceptionally unfavorable weather ... Your guide knows perfectly the terrain and will be the only master on board to take the necessary decisions with our base when it is necessary to interpret the whims of nature almighty on this volcanic earth and under these high latitudes.

Average level: Accessible to all hikers. Travel on board a small comfortable 4x4 bus. The duration of the walks depends on the weather conditions of the day and the level of the group. They can be lengthened or shortened. A person not wishing to do all the hikes can of course take part in this journey.

Group size: American group of 6 to 12 (+/-1) participants (Note: for group sizes of 6-7 persons a small group surcharge applies) Fjallabak’s staff or Fjallabak’s representatives accompanying professionals (e.g. photographers, journalists etc.…) and other discounted travelers such as children, are excluded from the participant count (minimum and maximum)

Small group surcharge : Additional small group surcharge below 8 participants (not commissionable) +36.000 ISK (ca.+250 €) for 7 participants  // +54.000 ISK (ca.+400€) for 6 participants

Vehicle: Small 4wd bus. English-speaking guide. On a complete group, the guide can sometimes be assisted by an Icelandic driver.

Accommodation during the trip:  Comfortable country hotels 5 nights on the coast and sleeping bag accommodation in mountain huts 2 nights (usually one comfortable, mixed bunkhouse). Dining room and well equipped kitchen, running water, toilet outside, showers with charge. Possibility to recharge your electrical appliances (220V electrical outlets European standards) on the Fjallabak North and on the South Coast of this trip, but there is no electricity in the refuges of the South Fjallabak Route.

Food: We pride ourselves on providing the best cuisine in the highlands!

• Breakfast is Scandinavian-style, with muesli, breads, jams, fish and cheese.
• Packed lunch, with a variety of sandwich fillings, from smoked meats and fish to local cheeses and salads.
• Dinners involve fresh, local fish and meat dishes, with pasta, rice or potatoes, fresh vegetables and salad. Vegetarians and those with food allergies can be fully catered for with a range of tasty options. It is essential that you inform our office of any special food requirements at the time of booking!

For usability, but no obligation, you can bring with you a little specialty of your home country to share with your companions as well as a flask of some thing for a short drink in the middle of nowhere.

Special diets, food allergies, vegetarians, vegans ...
We are aware of the dietary changes, due to exaggerated industrialisation of our time and we are able to satisfy special requests, as far as possible.
If you are vegetarian or if you have a particular diet, if you are allergic to certain foods, please let us know in the comments of the registration form and specify the details by email. We are used to meeting the demand of vegetarians, but vegans will have to bring from home some of their own supplements

Travel Preparation and Notes:
This trip is an active and in-depth exploration of the Highlands in 4wd vehicle and on foot which does not represent any difficulty for a good average walker, but nevertheless requires good physical form, excellent moral form, good team spirit.
Every day (except on the South Coast) is planned a beautiful walk. Of course your guide will always adapt each hike to the average level of the group and also according to the weather.
This trip is not a trek but a beautiful discovery.

During the days on the South Coast we drive more and walk less than in the Highlands of Fjallabak.

In the huts of the interior the members of the trip are supposed to give a little help to their guide for the preparation of the meals, to set the table, to do the dishes and sweep the refuge the morning of the departure.
Except of course for the days on the south coast if you have chosen, cosy and charming Inn.

The abrupt climatic motions of Iceland, always possible, demand and good equipment.

Please refer to the list of equipment, available in the information section of our site!

Clothing
You’ll need to bring comfortable and adequate clothing to protect you from cold and wet weather, such as polypropylene or pile. Wool (Merino wool is ideal) and wool/synthetic blends are also suitable - though wool, if wet, dries slowly compared to synthetic fabrics. We discourage the use of cotton in wet conditions it dries very slowly.

When layering, the innermost layer should be long underwear. The middle layer can be a synthetic turtleneck or wool shirt, and pants. The outermost layer must be a breathable waterproof jacket such as a good quality Gore-Tex wind/rain parka and over-pants.

For quantities for each item listed, use your own judgement, based on the expected weather conditions and overall packing/weight restrictions for your luggage.

A bag containing items you do not need during the trek can be kept at your accommodation in Reykjavik, otherwise stored at our warehouse in the countryside where the trek starts and ends.

Luggage:

• Large trekking travel bag (Duffle bag) in waterproof canvas 95-100 liters maximum 15 kg maximum (Avoid the hard suitcase, unless you cannot do otherwise)
• Hiking backpack 30-40 liters
• Waterproof rain-cover for this backpack

Shoes:

• Comfortable Hiking boots, medium weight, preferably all leather, with padded ankle, good ankle and arch support, and a lug sole traction. Your hiking boots should be waterproof, well broken in, and suitable for rocky terrain or possibly snow.
• Hiking sandals, preferably covering the toes, like Keen Newport, to cross fords. They can be very useful as emergency shoes. They can also be used in shelters if you do not bring your slippers Otherwise, beach sandals like Flip Flops are completely useless when it comes to crossing the current of a river.

Technical clothing

• Regular underwear. Synthetics are easier to wash and dry
• Synthetic thermal underwear
• Long-sleeved, synthetic or wool shirt
• Short-sleeved synthetic or cotton/synthetic T-shirts
• Medium-weight synthetic fleece sweater or jacket
• Full-length pants, quick-drying synthetic fabric
• Down jacket from mid-August to September (optional)
• Pile/fleece pants, ideal for around the camp
• Sun & rain hat
• Wool hat
• Gloves (wool or pile)
• Waterproofed shell gloves
• Socks in natural curly or synthetic raw wool (a few pairs)
• Gore-Tex rain/wind parka
• Gore-Tex rain/wind pants
• Gaiters.

Travel Accessories

• Comfortable sleeping bag +10°C to –10°C which can be opened all the way
• Cotton or silk bed sheet without elastic to put between you and the mattress in the shelters (optional)
• Pillow if you can’t sleep without one (optional)
• Hiking poles
• Swimsuit and towel for hot spring bathing and swimming pool
• 1-to-2 liters capacity unbreakable water bottle or thermos
• Hermetic sandwich box
• Hiking mug
• Small hermetic bag with zipper for your wallet and passport
• Small hermetic bag with zipper for your mobile phone
• Headlamp or small flashlight with spare batteries (from August only)
• Swiss Army-type pocketknife (Must be kept in duffle bag, not in hand luggage, when flying!)
• Toiletry kit—soap, toothbrush, and so on.
• Moisturizing lotion. (The air in Iceland is very dry)
• Sunglasses
• Eye shades. Highly recommended!
• Spare pair of prescription glasses, prescription sunglasses, or contact lenses (but not only lenses, as wind-blown dust can make them very uncomfortable)
• Sunscreen and lip protection (The sun in Iceland is much more intense than you probably imagine)
• Personal first aid kit
• Netting hood

Optional Travel Accessories

• Binoculars
• Repair kit with needle, thread, and safety pins
• Spare batteries Phone and camera charger on mains (220V) European plug and cigarette lighter
• Your favorite snack food such as raisins or chocolate
• Protein supplements for vegetarian
• Earplugs (optional)
• Opaque fabric sleep mask from May to the end of July (optional)
• Anti-Insect Net for head and face protection in June and July (*)

Optional but much appreciated for conviviality

• A small specialty from your “region”, e.g.: cheese, salty or sweet biscuits, etc.
• 1 or 2 good bottles of wine or a flask of something stronger (Duty-free at Keflavik Airport is open for arriving travelers)