Across the volcanic ridge from west to east
A great 9 day hut to hut trek in the Icelandic highlands
With the exception of a lightweight day pack, all equipment and luggage are transported by a 4x4 support vehicle.
The complete route takes us to the Tindfjöll massif and then to the vast Hrafntinnusker Caldera and its mysterious surroundings, and from there descends through green ridges and laughing valleys to the entrance of the long, narrow black desert of Mællifellssandur which lies between the caldera and the enormous mass of the Mýrdalsjökull ice cap and leads to the lake of Hólmsárlón and the Eldgjá fault to the southeast of the caldera.
The metaphor “Black raven reefs” is a perfect example of the natural poetry of the old Icelandic language. (Hrafntinnusker: Hrafn for raven, Tinna for black and Sker for reefs)
This describes a chaos of obsidian, an intense black razor sharp vitrified lava, which spreads among soft colored hills in the center of a vast caldera of the same name: Hrafntinnusker. large loops to explore the incredible caldera. More obvious are the amazing rhyolite mountains, formed in incredible bands of pink, brown, green, yellow, blue, purple, black, white, orange and red and glittering with innumerable black, glass-like obsidian lava… Walking among countless bubbling, steaming hot springs, we cross this pearl of the interior, famous for its incredible natural beauty.
We will see preliminarily the innumerable solfatares with pools of mud, bubbles of powerful and noisy steam. On the edge of the caldera we advance on a platitude of black slag that leads to Mount Hekla which dominates the horizon close to its imposing and legendary mass.
To privatise this trek:
This trek, as described here, can be privatized for your family, for your hiking club, for your university, for your company or for your clients if you are a mountain guide:
- either on one of our scheduled dates still available
- or on any other date if availability allows
Code | From |
to |
Duration |
Price / Estimated |
Language | Avail. |
Book |
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To change the indicative price in your prefered currency, choose it from the available list in the upper right-hand corner of this page.Conversion rates are from the Icelandic National Bank |
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TBR713 | 13 Jul 2025 |
21 Jul 2025 |
9 days |
390000 ISK / 2676 EUR |
International | 10 | |
TBR810 | 10 Aug 2025 |
18 Aug 2025 |
9 days |
390000 ISK / 2676 EUR |
International | 10 |
Day 1: Reykjavik -Ranga River
Walk 3-4 hours - 10 km - Alt. 200 m > 350 m
Your guide will meet you in Hella when you get off the bus from Reykjavik (See our practical information for getting from Reykjavik to Hella) and take you to our nearby warehouse. There we will prepare the midday picnic, check your equipment, then load the travel bags, food and equipment into the trailer of our support jeep. 30 km later we will leave the inhabited countryside to cross on foot a vast natural meadow that extends to the foothills of the Tindfjöll massif. On the meadow, we can see the ruins of old peat farms abandoned at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, due to a long period of extreme weather which, combined with severe eruptions, ruined the countryside all around the country. Nearly a third of Icelanders will then immigrate to Canada and some to Brazil. We advance through all this green to the Rangá River. In June and July, we are accompanied by the alarm calls and trills of waders (small waders such as the golden plover, the snipe, the godwit, the curlew and other sandpipers). We ford the river to reach our refuge on the other bank.
Day 2: Tindfjöll Massif
6–7-hour hike - approx. 12 km - Altitude 300 m > 700 m
The Tindfjöll, nicknamed "The Peaks", are a small, majestic mountain range with several distinct small peaks, the largest of which, Ymir (1462m) and Ýma (1448m), evoke giants from Scandinavian mythology. It is of course not the Himalayas, nor the Andes in Patagonia, but it looks like them, a perfectly miniaturized mixture of the two that gives this indescribable illusion of grandeur and virgin immensity that Iceland has the secret of. Tíndafjallajökull is not the largest glacier in the country, but it spills out of a giant crater about 12 to 16 km in diameter, formed by the cataclysmic explosion of a very large volcano thousands of years ago. Progression across a vast desolate expanse between the Tindfjöll and the Hekla volcanic system that dominates the horizon to the north of its visible or invisible presence.
Day 3: Krókur (The Hook)
6-8 hour hike - approx. 15 km - Altitude 600 m
A large loop through the mini territories that leads to the northern foot of the Tindfjöll massif through green valleys where streams of crystal clear water meander, marshes dotted with cotton grass, deep canyons, beautiful green hills. Krókur "the hook" is a sharp turn of the Markarfljót a turquoise river that meanders between cones covered with green moss. This territory could well be an advanced observation post of the Kingdom of the Elves just on the edge of the desolation of Mordor
Day 4: Lake Skyggnisvatn
6-8 hour hike - approx. 15 km – Altitude 600 m > 800 m
The path takes a long and thick palagonite ridge to the North-East which leads to the imposing monolith of Laufafell, an outpost of the Hrafntinnusker caldera. This regular ridge is a balcony over the region: On the right, to the north, a vast territory linked to the Hekla volcanic system with its dominant black and red, on the left towards the south, a grey landscape stained with fluorescent green, a jumble of worn and jagged palagonite mountains resulting from ancient subglacial eruptions
Day 5: Hrafntinnusker Caldera
Walk 6-8 hours – Alt. 590 m > 1100 m > 590 m
Large loop through the shimmering colors of the rhyolitic massifs on the heights of Landmannalaugar. Incredible palette of pastel colors, from blue to pink, including all possible ochres. Countless fumaroles, pools of sulphureous mud, flows of vitrified obsidian, swamps, clear lakes and immaculate ice caps follow one another as far as the eye can see. We walk along a vast flow of obsidian Hrafntinnusker, “the reefs of raven black”.
Obsidian is a black vitrified lava with sometimes blue or green reflections, which when broken is sharp as a razor blade that spreads here on the soft pastel undulations of acid rocks of the crown of the caldera of the same name. We will carefully see the countless solfataras with pools of bubbling mud, powerful and noisy jets of steam
Day 6: Hike Ljósártungur to Hvanngil
Hikes 7-5 hours – ca. 21 km (13 miles) – Alt. 785 to 550 m (2575 to 1800 feet)
Going down to Fjallabak South, we can admire the alignment of the mountain ranges, all perfectly parallel and aligned in the same direction: the direction of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge that crosses Iceland from North to South. In good weather, we have a spectacular view of three large ice caps: Mýrdalsjökull, Eyjafjallajökull and Tíndafjallajökull. Following the course of the Markarfljót canyon, we descend south through hills and wet meadows, crossing clear streams. At the end of the day, arriving at the Hvanngil refuge, we cross the marked Laugavegur trail where we are surprised to meet so many backpackers with large backpacks. This too famous marked Laugavegur trail joins Landmannalaugar to the Thorsmörk valley and the south coast. From a distance it can sometimes make you think of a procession of ants. It is in some way the “Tour du Mont Blanc” of Iceland.
This beautiful stage is the longest of this trek. Luckily our assistance jeep will be able to join us that day if necessary and allow some of our companions who would like to spare themselves to get on board and not do the entire walk of this long day.
Day 7: Mælifellssandur
Hike 5 hours – ca. 15 km (9 miles) – Alt. 550 to 563 m (1800 to 1850 feet)
We cross the sand of Mælifellssandur. In the middle of this strange black flatness stands the solitary cone of Mælifell, covered in fluorescent green-coloured moss. We are able to explore the extraordinary landscapes between the southern flank of the Torfajökull caldera and the mighty dome of the Mýrdalsjökull icecap. Beneath this huge sheet of ice lies Katla, another of Iceland’s angriest volcanoes. She last erupted in 1918 and is long overdue for another eruption.
Day 8: Strútslaug - Lake Hólmsárlón
Hike 6-7 hours – ca. 19 km (12 miles) – Alt. 563 to 563 m (1850 to 1850 feet)
After an unforgettable bath at the end of the world in a hot spring, progress on the banks of the long and narrow turquoise lake Hólmsárlón. At the other end of the lake its spillway falls abruptly in a series of beautiful waterfalls to the superb red crater of Rauðibotnar (Red Bottoms). This crater is an integral part of the great fault of Eldgjá. It is the explosive result of the meeting of a river with the fire of an eruptive fault. Once again this beautiful landscape of red rocks, thick green-bronze mosses and fresh torrents would almost make us forget the cataclysmic creation of Iceland as well as our planet in general.
The fault of Eldgjá is the longest eruptive fissure on earth, today covered by moss and crossed by a clear stream. As large as the Laki eruption was, it was exceeded by Iceland's A.D. 934-940 Eldgjá eruption, which occurred in the same mountainous region. During the six years that this eruption was active, lava erupted from several vents along a discontinuous 75-km-long (47-mile-long) fissure system and buried more than 781 square km (302 square miles) of southern Iceland. Fortunately, huge eruptions like those at Eldgjá and Laki are very unusual; otherwise, life as we know it would probably not be. Though the hazards posed by lava flows and volcanic gas here on the “Big” Island are understandably important to us, they are still tiny in comparison to what our big blue planet is capable of.
En fin de randonnée, on rejoint en jeep l’orée des terres habitées du district de Skaftafellssýsla, en bordure de l’énorme fleuve de lave pétrifiée du Laki ou se rue et divague la Skaftá une puissante rivière glaciaire limoneuse issue du Vatnajökull.
Day 9: South Coast – Reykjavik
Route 280 km
We return by vehicle to the coastal plain. Return to Reykjavik with our jeep or with a regular bus from Vík-í-Mýrdal. Arrival in the late afternoon (The schedule of this day will be specified later)
- Difficulty level: 2-3 Moderate
- Average walking per day: ca. 15-16 km (9-10 miles)
- Total walking distance: ca.48 km (30 miles) / 24 hours walk (4-day version)
- Total walking distance: ca.62 km (39 miles) / 36 hours walk (6-day version)
- Altitude between: 135 m and 600 m (440-1970 feet)
- Positive gradients: ca.1200 m (ca.3900 feet)
- Downhill gradients: ca.1000 m (ca.3280 feet)
Itinerary and security: the day by day program can be modified or even reversed. However, these changes are rather rare for reasons of safety due to natural phenomena: volcanism, early or late snowfall, bad weather, flooding rivers, exceptionally unfavorable weather ... The guide knows the terrain well and is sole master in interpreting the whims of all-powerful nature on this volcanic earth under these high latitudes, and to make the necessary decisions.
Composition of the group: In general, the participants of our trips come from several countries: French speaking from France, Switzerland, Belgium and Quebec but also English speaking people from Great Britain, Ireland, United States (Democratic trending), Australians, New Zealanders or other nations who know how to express themselves in English like Scandinavians, Germans, sometimes Japanese or Russians, and even sometimes Icelanders.
Your Icelandic or French guide is fluent in French and English and masters very well at least one other European language. Traveling with Fjallabak can represent a unique opportunity to meet, exchange ideas and socialize with companions from other countries than yours that you might otherwise never have approached. A unique opportunity to make friends from all around the world and twist the neck to certain prejudices and misconceptions inked
Languages spoken: the departure dates are all marked as:
¬ International, (multinational is more accurate) this means that the guide can express himself both in English and in French (possibly in other languages). Participants can be from all around the world if they speak at least one of these two languages: French and / or English
¬ French, it means that the guide is French-speaking as the group that is composed solely of participants from French-speaking countries (Swiss, French, Belgian, Belgian, etc.) or non-French speakers wanting to improve their French. If you want to test your French, do not hesitate
¬ English means that the guide and the group speaks English. That said, this guide probably speaks also other languages, which may be French (please consult). The group is made up of participants from English-speaking countries or participants from non-English speaking countries with good English skills.
Group size: Group of 4 to 12 (+/- 1) participants (Note: for groups of 4-5 people, a small group supplement applies) Fjallabak staff or representatives of Fjallabak accompanying professionals (photographers , Journalists, etc.) and other discounted travelers such as children are excluded from the number of participants (minimum and maximum).
Small group surcharge :
- 40.000 ISK / p.pers (approx. + 270 €) for 5 participants
- 78.000 ISK / p.pers. (approx. + 540 €) for 4 participants
Accommodation: sleeping bag (your own) in mountain refuges and huts: Bunks with comfortable mattresses. Running water and kitchen in the shelter, but the toilets and sinks are usually outside, a few yards in a small building apart. Warm hot showers with charge are available in some huts. If you want more privacy during the night while we sleep, we offer you the possibility of sleeping in tents that we provide, please notify us in advance. On the treks where camping nights are planned, the camps are made up of double tents (or single on request) with a comfortable and insulated mattress and a large equipped mess tent.Electricity: take enough batteries for your camera because you will not often be able to recharge batteries in the huts. Also take a normal charger (220v for European standard outlets) as there are some shelter that have electricity.
Food: We pride ourselves for providing the best cuisine in the highlands! Breakfast is Scandinavian style, with muesli, breads, jams, smoked fish, charcuterie and cheese. The picnics can be a bit repetitive after a week (we are in Iceland), with a variety of sandwiches, smoked meats and fish, excellent local cheeses, green salad, tomatoes and cucumbers. Dinners, varied and often excellent, include fish and lamb dishes, served with pasta, rice or potatoes, vegetables and a green salad.
However, vegans will have to supplement their luggage even though we can accommodate their needs.
For conviviality, but without obligation, you can bring with you a specialty of your country as well as a good bottle of alcohol.
Accommodation during the trek: Sleeping bag accommodation in mountain huts and huts (usually a comfortable and mixed lodging) and according to the itinerary and the conditions, at the peak of the season a few nights might be spent in spacious double tents equipped with comfortable mattresses. Showers are available in some huts, not all.
Food, special diets: It is essential that vegetarians specify what is banned from their menu, such as those suffering from food allergies (lactose, gluten, etc.). It is important that you advise us of your special food requirements at the time of booking. If the list is long or there is danger with certain allergies, please send us the details by mail to these two addresses <matta@fjallabak.is> and <lager@fjallabak.is> so that the team of our warehouse/storage can take this into account in the preparation of food. Your guide will be aware of your plan, but it does not necessarily mean that he is a specialist in that matter, so it's up to you to tell him about it at the beginning of the journey when preparing the first meal! It is also up to you to control at each meal what suits you.
Each day a 4x4 vehicle carries the luggage and the food from hut to hut. We do not see this vehicle during the day, because it takes tracks that we rarely encounter. Someone feeling tired one day can make the trip with the driver (often a friendly guide of our team) which will make him discover another aspect of the highlands. A 4x4 assistance vehicle carries the luggage, food supplies and equipment between shelters and camps. We do not see this vehicle during the day, because it takes tracks that we rarely encounter. Someone feeling tired one day can make the trip with the driver (often a friendly guide of our team) which will make him discover another aspect of the highlands. Our carbon impact is lower because the kilometric average of the vehicle does not exceed 30km / day.
Preparation of the trip and notes: This is an assisted hut to hut trekking. At the peak of the season, we might camp for a night or two. The level of walking is moderate to sustained. You only carry a light bag containing what you need for the day. This trek does not present any serious difficulty for people in good physical shape having at least some experience of long walks in the mountains. An experienced guide leads the trek. This trek passes through totally desert areas. Most of the walking is off-trail, with ever-changing terrain conditions. Therefore, sturdy hiking shoes that fit well your feet are a must. Most days involve river crossing, so it is essential not to forget your sandals. See our kits list for more information. You hike 6-7 hours per day, on average, but it can be longer, depending on the weather, the average level of the group. The maximum altitude does not rise more than 1000m. The change of altitude for most days does not exceed 300 m.
Participation: An experienced Icelandic guide leads the trek. As we are not in Nepal but in Iceland, it is expected that the members of the group lend a helping hand to their guide in the preparation of meals, washing the dishes, cleaning the floors before leaving the huts, setting up and taking down the tents when camping. Once in the mountains, the group becomes an independent entity. Fellowship, teamwork and forged friendships add much to the richness of each person's experience.
Privatise this trip:
This trip, as described in the itinerary, can be privatized on other dates for a family, a group of friends, a travel club, for a travel agency, a professional photographer, etc.
Net prices per person below are in ISK and depend on your group size. The price in EUR in brackets is only indicative!
Group size / Net price per person / (Indicative price in Euros) to come
Clothing
You’ll need to bring comfortable and adequate clothing to protect you from cold and wet weather, such as polypropylene, capilene, or pile. Wool and wool/synthetic blends are also suitable - though wool, if wet, dries slowly compared to synthetic fabrics. We discourage the use of cotton in wet conditions it dries very slowly. When camping, tents are provided. You will be responsible for bringing your mattress and sleeping bag.
When layering, the innermost layer should be long underwear. The middle layer can be a synthetic turtleneck or wool shirt, and pants. The outermost layer must be a breathable waterproof jacket such as a good quality Gore-Tex wind/rain parka and over-pants.
For quantities for each item listed, use your own judgement, based on the expected weather conditions and overall packing/weight restrictions for your luggage.
- Regular underwear. Synthetics are easier to wash and dry
- Synthetic thermal underwear
- Long-sleeved, synthetic or wool shirt
- Short-sleeved synthetic or cotton/synthetic T-shirts
- Medium-weight synthetic fleece sweater or jacket
- Full-length pants, quick-drying synthetic fabric
- Down jacket from mid-August to September (optional)
- Hiking shorts, quick-drying synthetic fabric
- Pile/fleece pants, ideal for around the camp
- Sun & rain hat
- Wool hat
- Gloves (wool or pile)
- Waterproofed shell gloves
- Medium weight synthetic socks
- Gore-Tex rain/wind parka
- Gore-Tex rain/wind pants
- Hiking boots, medium-weight, all leather, with padded ankle, good arch support, and a lug sole traction. Your hiking boots should be waterproof, well broken in, and suitable for rocky terrain or possibly snow.
- Comfortable shoes to wear when not hiking (optional) Teva-type sandals for river crossing. Absolutely recommended! Gaiters. Highly recommended.
Travel Accessories
- Comfortable sleeping bag +10°C to –10°C which can be opened all the way
- Cotton sheet for hut’s mattress
- Pillow if you can’t sleep without one (optional)
- Hiking poles. Highly recommended
- Swimsuit and towel for hot spring bathing and swimming pool
- 1-to-2 liters capacity unbreakable water bottle or thermos
- Headlamp or small flashlight with spare batteries (from August only)
- Swiss Army-type pocket knife (Must be kept in duffle bag, not in hand luggage, when flying !)
- Toiletry kit—soap, toothbrush, and so on.
- Moisturizing lotion. (The air in Iceland is very dry)
- Sunglasses
- Eye shades. Highly recommended!
- Spare pair of prescription glasses, prescription sunglasses, or contact lenses (but not only lenses, as wind-blown dust can make them very uncomfortable)
- Sunscreen and lip protection (The sun in Iceland is much more intense than you probably imagine)
- Personal first aid kit
- Netting hood
Optional Travel Accessories
- Binoculars
- Repair kit with needle, thread, and safety pins
- Reading and writing material
- Your favorite snack food such as raisins or chocolate
- Protein supplements for vegetarian
- 1 or 2 good bottles of wine or a bottle of something stronger
This is an interactive map. Click on the icons and the trail to get more information and photos.